The Horror... The Amor...

Casa Bonita is a Denver institution, famous to everyone who ever lived here, long before an infamous episode of South Park depicted it for a wider audience. The bizarre Mexican restaurant with TARDIS-like interior dimensions and entertainments from puppet shows to a "haunted house" to cliff divers was decaying in decades of squalor before the creators of South Park bought it, refurbished it, and reopened it to more public demand than ever.

That story is chronicled in a new documentary streaming on Paramount Plus: ¡Casa Bonita Mi Amor! I found it both quite entertaining and more than a bit horrifying.

First: the entertaining part. The film really demonstrates how improbable it is that Casa Bonita even continues to exist. Only because South Park creators Trey Parker and Matt Stone stepped in was the rundown restaurant saved. Parker in particular is portrayed as a Don Quixote who has made this project his personal windmill. Most people are familiar with the deep lure of nostalgia, but few of us have the kind of financial resources he had to just keep throwing money at a problem past the point of reason.

In the course of this documentary, we see the already-exorbitant sticker price of the restaurant become laden with repair costs that rise, then sail, then soar well past any possible expectations. Casa Bonita has been called "the Mexican Disneyland" by some, and it starts to look like it might cost as much.

That leads to the horrifying part of the documentary. I actually ate at Casa Bonita many times over the years, including a few visits during the 2010s, not long before it closed prior to Parker and Stone's purchase. When the documentary shows you what was actually going on in the walls of the restaurant at that time, I wonder how I've even lived to tell the tale. Vile filth infesting walls, ceiling, and floors feels like only the beginning, as we're shown how much money needs to be spent just to turn Casa Bonita into an inhabitable space -- never mind restoring it to its former glory. You can only wonder how the place was passing inspections for all those years. Bribery? People looking the other way out of their own sense of nostalgia about the place? This documentary is a sort of real-life version of the 80s comedy The Money Pit, where everything that can go wrong does.

But the story does have a happy ending -- and the documentary even showed me things I never knew about Casa Bonita. It points out several spruced up or wholly new features that I didn't notice in my one visit since the place reopened, sparking a feeling in me I hadn't had since visiting the restaurant as a child: there's always something new to discover there, some nook or cranny with something you've never noticed before.

It may be that ¡Casa Bonita Mi Amor! would hold less appeal for anyone who has never personally visited the restaurant. Then again, maybe it would be interesting to see how this funhouse fever dream is actually a real place. Regardless, I myself give the documentary a B+. It's a fun, wild watch.